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DC Inverter FAQ
An inverter changes DC voltage from batteries or
solar panels, into standard household AC voltage so that it can be used
by common tools and appliances.
Converters: What are sometimes called "converters",
especially in the RV world, are actually battery chargers and/or DC
power supplies. Why they are called converters in RV's and no place else
we have not a clue. A "converter" is basically the opposite of an
inverter.
Essentially, it does the opposite of what a
battery charger or "converter" does. DC is usable for some small
appliances, lights, and pumps, but not much else. Most systems should
include an inverter of some type, even if it is just an el-cheapo $29
Walmart thing to run the TV occasionally. Some DC appliances are
available, but with the exception of lights, fans and pumps there is not
a wide selection. Most other 12 volt items we have seen are expensive
and/or poorly made compared to their AC cousins. The most common battery
voltage inputs for inverters are 12, 24, and 48 volts DC - a few models
also available in other voltages.
There is also a special line of inverters called
a utility intertie or grid tie, which does not usually use
batteries - the solar panels or wind generator feeds directly into the
inverter and the inverter output is tied to the grid power. The power
produced is either sold back to the power company or (more commonly)
offsets a portion of the power used. These inverters usually require a
fairly high input voltage - 48 volts or more. Some, like the Sunny Boy,
go up to 600 volts DC input.
A few grid tie inverters can also be used with
batteries, but there will be some loss in overall efficiency for feeding
the grid. How much loss can vary considerably, depending on the inverter
and the size and type of batteries. If you need battery backup power for
a grid tie system, we recommend the Outback Power inverters, as they
have the best efficiency with batteries - you will get about a 5-10%
loss. With some older inverters, such as the Xantrex SW series, that can
sell back excess power to the grid overall losses can be as high as 50%.
An inverter takes the DC input and runs it into a
pair (or more) of power switching transistors. By rapidly turning these
transistors on and off, and feeding opposite sides of a transformer, it
makes the transformer think it is getting AC. The transformer changes
this "alternating DC" into AC at the output. Depending on the quality
and complexity of the inverter, it may put out a square wave, a
"quasi-sine" (sometimes called modified sine) wave, or a true sine wave.
Square wave inverters are usually only suitable for
running some type of electrical tools and motors and incandescent
lights. They are pretty rare nowadays, some of the old 1970's Triplite
and a few others, and some old military surplus is about the only place
you find it now.
Quasi-sine (modified sine, modified square) wave
inverters have more circuitry beyond the simple switching, and put out a
wave that looks like a stepped square wave - it is suitable for most
standard appliances, but may not work well with some electronics or
appliances that electronic heat or speed control, or uses the AC for
clocks or a timer.
What May Not Run: Appliances that use
electronics to control temperature or timers may have problems with
modified sine waves. This includes anything - tool or appliance - that
is variable speed, bread makers, some microwaves, some washers and
dryers that use electronic timing for cycling. Most computers, TV's and
similar items will have no problem. Anything with a motor will use about
20% more power with a modified sine wave than with a true sine wave.
Also, some of the chargers used for battery
operated tools (such as Makita) may not shut off when the battery is
charged, and should not be used with anything but sine
wave inverters unless you are sure they will work. Sine wave inverters
put out a wave that is the same as you get from the power company - in
fact, it is often better and cleaner. Sine wave inverters can run
anything, but are also more expensive than other types. The quality of
the "modified sine" (actually modified square wave), Quasi-sine wave,
etc. can also vary quite a bit between inverters, and may also vary
somewhat with the load. The very bottom end put out a wave that is
nothing but a square wave, and is too "dirty" for all but universal
motor driven tools, coffee makers, toasters, and other appliances that
have only a heating element.
One solution to the problem of a few small
appliances not working well with modified sine wave inverters is to get
a large standard inverter, and a small (such as the Exeltech or Samlex)
true sine wave for use only with that equipment. This would also allow
you to keep the small appliance (such as an answering machine) powered
up without having to run the larger inverter full time.
120 volts is actually the "nominal" voltage of
most inverters and North American homes. It may actually vary anywhere
from 110 to 120 volts, with 117 being typical.
Most utility connected homes in North America
have dual AC voltages - 120 and 240. On a typical home there are three
wires coming in - 120-neutral-120. It is 240 volts across the two
outside ones. The 120 is used for most things, while 240 is used for
water heaters, electric clothes driers, well water pumps, and air
conditioning. Since these high-power items are not practical in a solar
powered home, they are either not used or are replaced with gas
appliances.
Many off-grid homes may have little use for 240
volt AC power - but even so many newer ones are wired just like a
standard home to meet electrical and building codes. If it IS required,
you can "stack" two 120 volt inverters to get 240. The one exception to
the above is that many AC well pumps are 240 volt. If the well pump is
the only 240 volt item you have, the best choice is probably to get a
step up transformer, such as the Xantrex or Outback Power 120 to 240
step up transformer. There are also some newer inverters, such as the
Magnum MS and Xantrex XW that supply both - they are essentially two
inverters in one unit to supply 120 and 240 volt AC.
There are export versions of most inverters for
100 volts, 105 volts, 205 volts, and 220/230 volts, in both 50 and 60
Hz.
Inverter-Chargers:
Inverters come in two basic types - with and
without built in battery chargers. The ones with built in chargers are
handy if you charge your batteries from AC, especially for RV's. They
are also essential if using an inverter for setting up a UPS system for
backup power. But not everyone needs them - and most small inverters
under 1000 watts or so are simply not available with a built in charger.
Nearly all inverter-chargers made in the past few
years have 3-stage chargers, so you can usually leave them powered up
all the time. Nearly all inverters with chargers also have a built in
transfer relay - what that means is that if you are running from AC or
shore power, the power feeds through the inverter, with some being
tapped off for the battery charger. If the AC power goes out, the
inverter automatically switches to battery power. In most cases you
won't even see a light flicker, it is so fast.
Inverter (and other) Efficiency:
Inverter efficiency is a question we get asked
about a lot. The efficiency of an inverter has to do with how well it
converts the DC voltage into AC. This usually ranges from 85% to 95%,
with 90% being about average.
However, there is more to the story. Efficiency
ratings are usually given into a resistive load (basically something
like a light bulb or electric heater). When running such things as
motors, the efficiency actually breaks down into two parts - the
efficiency of the inverter, and the efficiency of the waveform.
Waveform efficiency means that most motors and many electronic
appliances run better and use less power with a sine wave. Typically, an
electric motor (such as a pump or refrigerator) will use from 15% to 20%
more power with a modified sine wave than with a true sine wave. When
choosing an inverter based on efficiency, you should also consider what
you are going to be running.
A 90% efficient modified sine wave inverter is not
90% when running a compressor motor, for example, because electric
motors are less efficient. They use about 20% more power on a modified
sine wave.
Inverters are also much less efficient when used
at the low end of their maximum power. For example, using a 1000 watt
inverter to power a 20 watt radio may actually be using 30 to 40 watts
from the battery, as the inverter itself is eating up a lot just to run.
Most inverters are most efficient in the 30% to 90% power range.
Inverters have two or three sets of power
carrying wires to be concerned about: the wires from the battery to the
inverter, the wires from the inverter to the home (or other AC load),
and in some cases the wiring from a backup generator or other AC source.
The wiring for the AC to the home and from the generator is sized just
like you would for AC wiring in a utility connected home. It is usually
#10, 12, or 14 standard AC wire. For the small inverters, 800 watts or
less, #16 can be used but the mechanical strength of small wire leaves
much to be desired.
The wire or cables from the batteries to
the inverter are much more critical, and are often undersized.
In some cases, the cable may be large enough to carry the "static" load
of a motor, but on start up will drop so much voltage in the cable that
the inverter will shut down on low voltage cutoff. The same thing can
happen with small inverters and TV sets - a TV may only use 100 watts,
but the start up surge may be 300 watts for a few seconds. Wire lengths
from the battery should always be kept as short as possible, but not so
tight that there is a strain on the connections.
Recommended Fuses,
Breakers, and Wire Sizes for Inverters
|
| Inverter Watts |
Inverter DC voltage |
Input Fuse/Breaker |
DC Wire Size
Minimum ! |
| 50-150 |
12 |
20 amp |
12 to 14 |
| 200-250 |
12 |
30-40 amp |
8 to 10 |
| 300-500 |
12 |
50-60 amp |
6 to 8 |
| 600-1000 |
12 |
110 amp |
4 to 6 |
| 1100-1500 |
12 |
200 amp/175 bkr |
2/0 to 2 |
| 1100-1500 |
24 |
110 amp |
2/0 to 4 |
| 1800-2500 |
12 |
300 to 400 amp/250 |
4/0 |
| 1800-2500 |
24 |
200 amp/175 |
2/0 |
| 2600-3600 |
24 |
400 amp/250 |
4/0 |
| 4000 |
24 |
400 amp/250 |
4/0 |
| 4000 |
48 |
200 amp/175 |
2/0 |
| 5500 |
48 |
200 amp/175 |
2/0 |
These are the recommended cable sizes for a
ten-foot distance from the batteries to the inverter. Note that the
larger wire size is the recommended, the smaller wire size is the
absolute minimum for safe operation. The sizes recommended are from a
combination of maximum wire amperage capacity and voltage drop. You
can't go wrong using bigger wire.
The fuse and breaker sizes shown are approximate. Since transformer
based (Outback Power, Xantrex) inverters usually have a much higher
maximum surge rating than electronic based (Samlex, Exeltech, Statpower),
they should always use the larger if more than one size is shown. The
reason some show a smaller breaker size than fuse size is that breakers
do not blow as fast on a temporary surge.
The
fuse should NEVER be bigger than 125% of the maximum surge power of the
inverter. For example, an inverter is rated at 1000 watts, and 1800
watts surge. For a 12 volt inverter, divide 1800 by 12, which gives you
150. 150 x 1.25 = 190 amp. The nearest standard size fuse is 200 amp.
You are always safe going to a smaller fuse, but if too small it might
blow on heavy loads. DC breakers should be rated for about the maximum
amperage draw, as they have a slight time delay on over current.
Which inverter has the best sine wave?
In general, from best down, it is Exeltech,
Outback Power, Magnum Energy, Statpower, Samlex. All are good enough for
99% of all applications, but the Exeltech may be better for low power
critical applications, such as recording or studio vans, or noise
sensitive medical equipment. For higher power systems that need the best
sine wave, either the Outback Power series or the Xantrex XW series.
Which is the "best" inverter?
There is no "best" for all purposes. Although the
Outback Power & Xantrex are considered by many to be the top of the
line, it does not make sense to spend $500 to $3000 when all you need is
a little Statpower Prowatt or Exeltech 125 watt sine wave to power up a
laptop. The best way to decide on what inverter is best is to work
backwards - figure out what you are going to use it for, and then find
one that fits those requirements. Also, some inverters have built in
chargers, which may be needed in some systems. The Outback & Xantrex
sine wave units include software and hardware for remote generator
start, alarms, remote control and monitoring, computer data, and other
functions - in many applications this is very important. If you are
running pumps or other large motors, Xantrex, Magnum, or Outback are the
only one we will recommend, even though some others might work.
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